When I have switched my camera system from Canon to Fujifilm a while back, I was also looking to expand and experience my lens choice. Before when I was using my EOS 500D, I had the kit 18-55mm and 55-250mm as I thought a zoom set-up will give me the most bang for the buck. But as I transit to Fujifilm, I noticed they seem to have put a lot of focus on their prime lens collections. With choices such as the F1.4 lineup or their more compact counterpart F2.0 lineup, I am intrigued as they say a prime lens is usually sharper, faster and cheaper. After some internal debate, I picked the XF35mmF2 for its compact size, weather sealing, fast focus and close to 50mm full-frame equivalent focal length.
Kudos to Fujifilm, when you hold this lens in your hands, quality is the first thing that springs to mind. It is full metal construction, even for the textured aperture ring and focus ring. The aperture ring is smooth with a nice click to it. Same as the focus ring, it is well dampened but not too hard to turn. It comes with a small metal lens hood. I am not sure it actually does much in terms of preventing glares and flares, but certainly does a good enough job to protect the glass. Truth be told, I am not a huge fan of this tapering, stumpy design of the lens so the hood kind of make it balance a bit better. Although the lens hood somehow makes it a bit more difficult to put the lens cap on. I am just being pernickety here…
It apparently has 8 seals in the lens body to help makes it weather-sealed and still works in -10˙C.
Dimension (Diameter x Length)
60mm x 45.9mm
35mm (53mm Full-Frame equivalent)
F2.0 – F16
Real-world test and review
If you are looking for the kind of technical review that takes picture of a brick wall, pixel peep to tell you which part of the lens is sharp, how much vignette you get at what stop, I am sorry to disappoint. They just aren’t important to me in the real world use of the lens. Modern days lens are all very sharp, arguably too sharp. Vignette is usually auto-corrected by most software you use to read the RAW file. So why bother worrying about them, plus as they say – if you are pixel peeping to decide whether it is a good photo, it’s not.
Autofocus ability though, is very important. It is between being the masterpiece or epic fail. And it is one of the reasons I chose the F2 version over the F1.4 version. Fujifilm quotes the AF to be 0.08s. With my X-T3, the focus is almost instant and bang on target 9/10. I have rarely missed a shot because the focus is too slow. Although auto-focus is amazingly fast and quiet, the manual focus is not quite the same story. Like most other Fuji’s lenses, they are focus by wire which is essentially an electronic sensor. So they don’t have a definite endpoint on either end. And it’s not linear focus either, it makes fast manual focus a bit challenging as you can’t really have a “muscle memory” when the focus throw is essentially infinity. On top of that, they make this weird, loud, clicky noise as you turn the focus ring during manual focus mode which contrasts how quiet it focuses during AF mode.
The size of this is also one of my major considerations. Like all my previous post, I like a good compact system so I bring the camera with me more. With it being only 107g and 60x46mm, it might not be a pancake but it is small enough that it fits in my sling bag with my X-T3. The small size does come with a little bit of compromise though. The filter size is 43mm. It can be a bit difficult to find the right size filter, such as some of the popular diffusion filters like the moment’s cinebloom don’t come in this thread size and using a filter adaptor on this lens for let’s say, street photography, I find can look a bit awkward.
Depth of field
For a fast prime lens, bokeh is one of its attraction. The 35mmF2 actually creates some really nice separations. The bokeh balls are very gentle and soft so it’s not distracting at all. Although F1.4 will give you an even better separation, I am happy to trade that 1 stop for the weather-sealing and faster autofocus. I also love the clickiness of the aperture ring and it is not easy to be bumped.
The 35F2 doesn’t have optical stabilisation. If you have an X-T4, the IBIS will be quite clutch in a low light situation to let you handheld at a slower shutter speed. As I personally don’t mind some grain or noise in my photos, it hasn’t really bothered me a huge amount as I just crank up my ISO to compensate for my shutter speed.
Fujifilm has really nailed it with the 35mm F2.0. It is more compact, quieter, snappier and cheaper than their older, best-selling lens 35mm F1.4. Every detail is well thought out, full metal construction feels premium, the different textured rings provide decent grips even in wet condition compliments with their weather seal property. With it costing just under £380, I would seriously recommend it to every Fujifilm X shooter out there. Although with the clicked aperture ring and the non-linear focus ring, it is a lens geared towards photographers rather than videographers. If you are already a prime lens shooter, you will understand what I mean by it is actually very liberating with the limitations that come with a prime lens.
If you are anything like me, you are probably always on the lookout for accessories to compliment your tech set-up. I look at it this way – the accessories are the “personal touch” of the big tech items you have. Even though my Fujifilm X-T3’s shallow grip doesn’t really bother me that much as I don’t have big bear hands, I come across this Small Rig L-Bracket grip which seems to get a lot of positive feedback. L-Bracket… meaning I can attach my camera to tripod in portrait orientation without relying on the ball head? Thought maybe I give it a go myself.
Maybe I will get some hate here but I am under no illusion that the quality of Chinese product can be hit or miss. So when I received the L-Bracket, the quality surprises me, in a good way. The wooden grip is smooth, the metal part feels solid and there are no rattles in or around the screws and joints. I know it doesn’t always correlate, but the L-Bracket has some weight to it that makes you feel a bit more sturdy.
I know I said the shallow grip doesn’t really bother me but from time to time, you do notice you are using a bit more finger grip strength which can be a bit tiring. So when I put on the SmallRig, it fits so well into my palm that I was actually taken aback slightly. The deep grip fills in the gap between the curled fingers to keep your hands in a nice neutral shape and distribute the weight evenly.
Landscape – Portrait mount
L shaped and ARCA Swiss compatible allows me to switch the camera from landscape into portrait orientation quicker. One of the issues that I have with a ball head tripod is the limited position for portrait orientation. So getting an L-Bracket solved that little annoyance I had for ages.
The built-in flat screwdriver attached to the bottom of the bracket using a magnet is also pretty neat. Screws can loosen over time with tiny vibrations, a built-in screwdriver is pretty handy for tightening them and works great with the adjustable side plate as well.
Multifunctional side plate
Their side plate provides 9 mounting holes allowing accessories attachment such as a cold shoe adaptor for external microphone/monitor for videography. So you can fully kit out the X-T3 to adapt your style of work.
Also their adjustable side plate
The adjustable side plate was one of their selling points. It was designed for cable release, tethering and accessories mounting. In reality, the camera strap attach point actually got in the way of the side plate so I had to extend the side plate out slightly to accommodate it. Just as I appreciate the small detail of the built-in screw drive, this slight misfit bugs me enough to annoy me.
Can’t reach the shutter button
Remember how I said I have dainty hands? Yeah, with the bracket installed, it feels really nice to hold. However, once I need to reach for the shutter button to take a photo, I find my hand having to really stretch and twist to reach for it.
SmallRig produces some good quality camera accessories and this L-Bracket is no exception. Mirrorless cameras tend to have a slimmer profile and one of the complaints about X-T3 is their shallow grip. SmallRig L-bracket gives a much deeper grip to improve the camera handling. The L-shaped design allows you to quickly switch from landscape to portrait on a tripod and also act as a camera cage for more accessory attachments. It is certainly one of the best accessories you can get for your X-T3 if you have big hands and find it awkward to hold your camera. Unfortunately for me, although I really appreciate all of their side benefits, my hand is just a bit too small to reach the most important button of the camera with the grip installed. Re-packaged, box sealed, return label printed and the hunt for accessories continues…
Photography is one of my many hobbies. I still remember the day getting my first “proper camera”, a second hand Canon 500D off my dad’s old work colleague many years ago. It was a very light, beginner DSLR (Digital Single-Lens Reflex) camera which I learned all the photography basic with. A camera which ISO 400 was its very limit. Trying to take a photo with anything higher than that was like trying to watch a TV with a broken antenna. Despite that, for the 10 years I had with it, it was more than enough for my skill. But recently, with the mirrorless market maturing creating an ever more compact and capable camera, I wanted to treat myself with an upgrade with better portability and the skills that comes with a new camera.
Skill in photography is acquired by purchase, not by practice.
(or is it the other way round?)
Fujifilm launched the X-T3 back in 2018. By that point, Fujifilm has a reputation for making gorgeous cameras that also pack with great performance and X-T3 was no exception. Although only sporting a cropped sensor, it holds itself so well in the market that has often been used to compete in the “budget full-frame” market.
Let’s get the boring list of spec out of the way:
26.1MP APS-C X-Trans CMOS 4 with a primary colour filter.
20 fps shooting with AF (11 fps with mechanical shutter)
30 fps shooting in 1.25x crop with electronic shutter
425-point hybrid AF system
Improved tracking AF and Face/Eye detection
3.69M-dot electronic viewfinder
Dual SD cards slot
10 bit 4:2:0 H.265 internal video capture
Internal F-Log capture
Three-Axis tilt screen
USB-C connector which also allows for charging the battery
That’s about the gist of it… Even a nerd like me gets bored after this. Essentially it’s a camera that comes with loads of impressive goodies that is enough for hobbyists and amateurs. Nowadays cameras are so good that the decision of which cameras system to pick boils down to the user experience (which we will get to) rather than spec alone.
1. Good looking
Fujifilm X-T3 is gorgeous. Call me vain, but if everyone is producing extremely capable cameras, the least you can do to stand out is to have a good design. Just like a Fiat Multipla is more than capable to take you from A to B, why did you choose to drive a BMW? From the shutter speed and ISO dials to the threaded shutter button and the aperture ring on the XF lenses, everything plays its part to complete the nostalgic look. A slim profile instead of a big chunky box also means the fashion-conscious like myself are more likely to carry about to take pictures.
2. Physicals dials
If you have read some of my previous blog posts, you probably know that I am a BIG FAN of physicals buttons and dials. Especially in cameras, you put your face to the viewfinder leaving very little space to use your touchscreen. Having physical dials and NINE buttons that can be customised to your preference improves the workflow by a million miles. Shaving off those precious seconds fiddling with settings can mean getting the shot or not. Although I found the on-off switch can be bumped a bit too easily, especially while chucking it in and out of the bag. On multiple occasions, it ended up taking pictures inside my bag like stupid bum calling people.
3. Film simulation
You can’t talk about Fujifilm’s cameras without mentioning their film stimulations. Analogue photography is making a comeback. People like films for their personality that the “perfect” digital photography lacks. Fujifilm was already a big player in the photography world even back in the film day, Superia, Pro 400H and ACROS 100 to name a few. So it is incredible that Fujifilm decided to incorporate the colour science of those popular films into their digital camera. With the colour already amazing straight out of camera JPEG, it makes post-editing much easier. They also allow you to fine-tune how the camera process colour in-camera to create different “recipes” to achieve different looks like the infamous Portra 400 and many more.
4. Great autofocus and fast continuous shoot
X-T3’s autofocus is quick and snappy. With the new firmware update, it improves the eye AF, tracking algorithm and the fastest AF speed down to 0.02 seconds to be on par with the latest X-T4. Although it may still not up to Sony’s standard, I found it performs well enough for my shooting style as a hobbyist. Pair with their extremely impressive continuous shooting mode up to 20fps with AF and 30fps in cropped mode, I still haven’t found a scenario where I wish to have a quicker camera. But just like owning a fast car, you know the speed limits are 30mph, but it is always nice to know your Bugatti can go to 300mph just in case you need it.
5. More than a capable hybrid camera
Now I have to put my hands up that I am not a videographer so I don’t know much about video capability. So let me regurgitate some of the specs like the 10-bit 4K and internal F-Log capture, which sounded like something a serious videographer would be impressed by. And if you don’t want to grade your footage in post, you can use their film stimulation to get remarkable colour straight out of the camera.
6. X-Trans sensor performance on par with Full Frame
I know the direct comparison between APS-C and Full Frame isn’t fair, but Fujifilm’s X-Trans sensor is holding up extremely well against, say Canon EOS RP’s sensor despite the smaller size. Without diving into too many details, Fujifilm’s X-Trans sensor arrange their photosites in a slightly different way compared to the conventional Bayer sensor. Fujifilm said it reduces the moire effect and therefore no need for a low pass filter that degrade the image resolution. The result means greater perceived resolution than the number of pixels. In real life, their low light performance also seems to outperformance the RP’s.
7. Wallet-friendly lens selection
When I was considering different camera system, I was really drawn to Canon’s RF lenses because of their sharpness and colour rendering. But it gave me a heart attack even just looking at the price tag. For example, RF 70-200mm F2.8 costs an eye-watering £2,700 and meanwhile Fujifilm “equivalent” 50-140mm F2.8 costs less than half the price at £1,300. They are both incredible lenses and even if you can convince yourself that the RF lens is sharper, how many of us in the amateur world actually NEED that pixel-peeping difference. I mean if you have a bottomless bank account, by all mean, but not all of us work that hard or that lucky.
Oh, and did I mention being compact? One of my reasons for wanting to switch to a mirrorless system is because it offers a slimmer profile. APS-C lenses are generally smaller because they only need to cover a smaller sensor. For instance, the massive Fujifilm XF 50mm F1, despite having a larger aperture, is still smaller than the Canon RF 85mm F1.2. My philosophy is: the smaller the system is, the more likely I will be bringing it around with me to shoot more.
1. Full Frame look
At the end of the day, APS-C is still just an APS-C. So you don’t get that “full-frame look” with that shallower depth of field (although it is not strictly true).
2. Battery life
X-T3 uses the NP-W126S battery quoted to be able to take about 390 shots in one charge. To be fair, the number isn’t bad. But to conserve battery life because of its small capacity, X-T3 goes into the energy-saving mode (dimmer screen and slower refresh rate) after a few seconds of inactivity. Sometimes it can be irritating especially when you are just looking through the viewfinder trying to compose your image when it drops off, although a quick half-press of the shutter button will bring it back to normal.
3. Shallow grip
X-T3 doesn’t have the chunkiest of grip. To maintain its slim profile, the grip is actually fairly shallow which doesn’t give you much confidence to hold especially if you have a big lens on. However, I don’t find it much of an issue as some other users online. Perhaps because Fujifilm is a Japanese company with a potentially Asian-sized design, it fits my hand pretty well. If it is a cause of concerns, there are loads of third party camera grip out there that can easily tackle that.
4. Screen not fully articulate
One of the main selling points of this camera is its video capability. However, it doesn’t come with a fully articulated screen which makes vlogging difficult without an external monitor.
5. Complicated menu system
Although it is not the worst I have used *cough Sony cough*, but coming from Canon who boasts an intuitive menu system, I found it hard to navigate through the menu system at first. It ended up taking much longer than I would like to get all my setting right for my need.
Still relevant in 2021?
Last year, in the midst of COVID lockdown, Fujifilm came out with their X-T3 upgrade, X-T4. With added IBIS, fully articulate and higher resolution screen, bigger battery, even faster continuous shooting and Classic Neg and Bleach bypass film stimulations, it is no doubt an overall better camera than X-T3. However, if you look a bit closer, X-T3 may actually be a better option for most people.
They both use the same sensor and image processor, and with a firmware update v4.0 to X-T3, the autofocus system is now the same as the X-T4 as well. It means the gut that REALLY matters is the same. Colour can be manipulated in post, you can carry an extra battery in your pocket and if you are mainly a photographer, you won’t need the fully articulated screen. So it is down to how much you would pay for the IBIS. At the moment, X-T3 is ~£400 cheaper than X-T4. That’s equivalent to a decent brand new lens like the 35mm F2 or the pancake 27mm F2.8 and more options available in the second hand market. The 5 axial IBIS are said to provide up to an impressive 6.5 stops compensation. It can come in clutch in a low light situation when you don’t have a tripod with you. In my opinion though, unless you are that niche of photographer that constantly encounter these scenarios, I would rather crank up the ISO, deal with the noise in post and get an extra lens. Or just be more organised and bring a tripod with you for god sake…
Fujifilm has absolutely nailed it with their X-T3. It was easily the best APS-C camera out in the market when it was first released back in 2018 and still holds true in many aspects despite the release of X-T4. There is really no bad camera nowadays, but Fujifilm created a product that provides a holistic experience to photography rather than blindly chasing that perfect sharpness or even higher resolution. You might be able to find a better still camera or a better-equipped video camera out there but it will be tough to find a better camera that can do both as brilliant as this gem.
With the X-T4 available on the market, X-T3’s price has since dropped and to the majority of the hobbyists and amateurs looking for a startling good deal, I would say look no further because this camera will make you fall in love with photography once again.
Speaking of instant photography, most people think of “Polaroid”. And from this evolves much confusion over the use of the term. I have heard people refer to Instax camera as “Fujifilm’s polaroid camera.” or “take a polaroid with your Fujifilm camera”. In today’s blog, let’s tackle this Frankenstein gibberish and what you need to know before you decide which system to go into.
Why can’t we see the picture now?
Start with some history…In my opinion, without a doubt, Instant photography is one of the most mind-blowing innovations. Dr Edwin H Land, the founder of Polaroid, revolutionised the industry by integrating the whole darkroom developing and fixing process into the film itself, allowing the photos to be developed just minutes after the deciding moment of pressing the shutter button. Saving the guesswork and the disappointment of only finding out days later that you have missed the shot.
This Polaroid legacy stemmed from an innocent question Dr Land’s daughter asked while they were on vacation in Santa Fe in 1943. Till today, the signature white square frame and the hypnotic way of the photos developing within minutes in front of your very own eyes, comes vividly into everyone’s head when anyone speaks of Polaroid.
Polaroid Originals vs original Polaroid?
With Dr Land achieved, seemingly at the time, an impossible task, most people today are still referring to any instant photo as “Polaroid”. Ironically, although Polaroid still exists and offers instant film today, they are far from the one Dr Land created. After being bankrupted and reformed twice, they are now owned by a Dutch company, the Impossible Project, which exists under the name of Polaroid Originals. During their struggles, a Japanese co-operative giant, Fujifilm, has risen to take over the instant photography world. So nowadays Polaroid to instant photography is merely like Hoover to vacuum cleaner, they were once so influential the brands essentially become synonyms with the product, though only the names stand the test of time. Polaroid still has instant cameras but, certainly, in today’s market, Instax is the new King.
Polaroid to instant photography is merely like Hoover to vacuum cleaner
Things you need to know
Phew, with some history lesson out of the way and getting the terminology right, we can finally be civilised and talk about other interesting things.
1. The Recipe
In analogue photography, the film plays a key part in how the photos look and feel. Since Polaroid went out of business in the 2000s, chemical companies whose sole business was to supply chemicals for Polaroid also closed for good. Polaroid Originals, therefore, has to re-develop their instant film formula. They have come a long way, but their formula still far from perfect. Apart from the long development time, reports of colour shifts, colour streaks and faded colours are not uncommon.
Fujifilm has been in the photography game for donkey’s year and with all the resources at hand, they seem to have nailed their instant film formula which produces a very consistent result. Although I once had a film that came out wrong, it rarely happens that made me wonder if that was caused by my malfunctioned brain rather than a dodgy film. Instax films also manage an amazing colour separation. They produce vivid images with a punchy contrast and incredible saturation. It is perfect for someone looking to have a system that does exactly what it says on the tin without any surprises. Although from a photography hobbyist perspective, you can say that’s a bit boring. Sometimes that little accident, be it a light leak or colour smudge, give the photo that unique charm that cannot be replicated.
2. One speed to rule them all…
Film speed is just about how sensitive to light the film is and most people know it as ISO. The higher the number, the more sensitive it is to light. You may want to know a little because it also picks up “noise” although nowadays everyone loves a bit of grain.
All Instax films come in only one speed, ISO 800. It is a good choice for indoor photography where the room is usually artificially lit. With the combination of an automatic flash that most Instax cameras come with, I took pride in somehow manage to mess one up.
However, when you shoot outdoor on a sunny day, with ISO 800, the problem is reversed – there is too much light. With a fast film, it forces the aperture to close down small where diffraction becomes significant and soften the image (Yeah Mr White, yeah science…). If the fastest shutter speed and smallest aperture cannot compensate for the excess light, the film can get overexposed and “washed out”. Worst-case scenario, the film gets “blown out”.
Meanwhile, Polaroid offers 2 different speeds, ISO 160 or 640, ready for your tanning session on the beach or a drunken night out.
3. Size doesn’t matter, it’s how you use it
Well… it’s a kind sentiment but in the photography world, size does matter. As we are discussing Instax and Polaroid, we will keep on topic. Instax has 3 sizes: Mini, Square and Wide. While Polaroid technically has two sizes their standard size and large format, as their large-format film needs an 8×10 film camera with a specific holder and processor, we will disregard it here.
A larger film means you can pack more into one frame. More people, more stories and possibly more freckles on show. In Fujifilm line-up, Instax Wide is the largest, providing a 1:1.618 golden ratio but still fall short of Polaroid signature gigantic 3.1×3.1inch square frame.
Apart from the picture size itself, I always think there is just something about a square format that pulls people in. From the good ol’ large format 4×5 and medium format 6×6 or 6×7 to the nowadays Instagram aspect ratio, they are more squares than rectangular. Maybe it’s the symmetry of a square that feels more natural to the eyes. With that, Instax came up with their square version back in 2017, basically a smaller version of a Polaroid film. It is understandable that Polaroid wasn’t well pleased about it and got some lawyers involved.
To me, the ultimate winner for having more options in the market is always going to be the consumers. Both manufacturers produce great products and it is difficult to say if anyone has an edge over the other. Instax film has good colour and consistent results but Polaroid has their enormous picture size and their “artistic flair” that won them a very loyal fan base. My personal approach is to start with Fujifilm Instax to dip my toes in the instant world in a more controlled and consistent way. Now I am satisfied with Instax, I would love to get my hands on the legendary Polaroid SX70 and see what their diehard fans see. The whole concept is like a gateway drug, once you are hooked by Instax, then experiment with Polaroid and you might understand the “inconsistency” might just be the way layperson interpret “character”.
Thanks for reading! Go check out my review on Fujifilm Instax Wide 300 if you haven’t already. Share your thoughts with me below, are you a fan of Instax or Polaroid?
*Click* The blinding flash fills the party room, you hear the motor working hard to squeeze that thin piece of white plastic sheet out of the camera. A few minutes later, as if like magic, that moment of joy emerges from this blank canvas, forever captured. Instant photography has been around for decades, but the anticipation of seeing the image developed and witnessing that mesmerising magic still get me excited every time I press down on the shutter button. Maybe that’s why when I first come across Fujifilm’s wide format Instax film, I naturally put on my research hat and decided to get my hands on it.
Instax wide 300 is meaty. And it has to be. The Instax Wide film is double the size that of their popular Instax mini, which is roughly the size of a credit card. The film itself comes in at 8.6 x 10.8 cm, so to be able to physically house the film cartridge in, there is a limitation of how small it can be. Compared to some other boxy body design, the film cartridge goes in vertically rather than horizontally allows it to have a slightly shallower profile, although the protruding lens design nullifies that advantage in the real world scenario.
It is very easy to insert the film cartridge, open the back and line up the yellow tag, and that’s you. It has a well sized and deep handgrip, complimented with a thumb rest on the back. You feel secure holding the camera and it is very comfortable, although it is a bit cumbersome aesthetically in my opinion, especially with the viewfinder awkwardly poking out of the other side.
Personally, the viewfinder on the Instax wide 300 is one of the very few points I hope Fujifilm will improve on for the next version of the Instax wide camera. Considered the fact that Fujifilm has to make the body a certain size to fit the film cartridge and extendible lens, “being compact” is not exactly at the top of the design priority list. I assume the placement of the viewfinder was a decision based on trying to balance the camera visually because of the bulky handgrip, mimic the look and feel of a rangefinder camera and avoid having to cramp your face on to the back of your hand. These may be justifiable, but what I don’t understand is, if it is already poking out to the side, why don’t they just make it bigger to make composition easier. With a 0.37x magnification, that’s like trying to read the bottom line of the Snellen eye test chart every time you want to take a picture!
Instax Wide 300 is essentially a point and shoot camera. It is mostly fully automatic, all you need to do is: pose your subject, press that big round button and there you go. The only control it gives you is the focus distance, exposure compensation and fill-in flash. Select the focus distance at the front ring for either 0.9m-3m(close up or indoors) or 3m-∞ (landscape). Exposure compensation let you have a bit of control over how bright you want your pictures to be (+/- 2/3EV). And the fill-in flash allows you to turn on the flash to light up your subject in a scene with a high dynamic range. Although it allows you to turn on the flash if and when you want extra lighting, it doesn’t let you override and turn off the flash if the camera decides the scene is too dark.
The official retail price of the Instax Wide 300 is £110. But you can definitely get a better price if you shop around. I got mine off Amazon for less than £100. It is a pretty good price considered the quality of the camera. Other competitors’ price range from £150 to £750, although you can expect the higher price range cameras tend to offer more functionality.
Instax wide colour film is going for £15-£20 for a pack of 20 (2x 10pack) and the monochrome film comes in a bit more expensive at ~£11 for a pack of 10. So you are looking at roughly £1 per frame, very similar to their Instax Mini . It is also cheaper than some other options such as Polaroid films which cost ~£15 for a pack of 8. Yes, analogue photography ain’t cheap so make sure you think twice before clicking that button.
Who’s it for?
Recommend: It is great for the vast majority of the public who just want to capture the moment without having to think about the exposure triangle and get a well-exposed photo every time. It is also great for people who had experience with Instax Mini or Square before but left wanting for more. If you are considering your first instant camera and camera size is not a determine factor, go wide! Because in the photography world, size does matter and the bigger is almost always better.
Think twice: But the simplicity of the controls also means they limit your creative options. Without being able to control the aperture, you can’t decide the depth of field (i.e. how blurry the background) and without being able to alter the shutter speed, you don’t have the option to play with long exposure. They don’t even offer multiple exposure mode. For the more seasoned photographers who like to experiment with their photos, Instax Wide 300 might not be what you are looking for.
Why I bought it?
I bought this Instax Wide 300 for my partner. In the last few years, the digital photography world turned its focus on packing more megapixels on the sensor and producing ever sharper lenses. In the pursue of this “perfection”, digital cameras are perhaps losing its “soul”, that unique “flavour” different camera gives. With that, analogue photography is quietly regaining a lot of people’s attention. Like the analogue photography community, Eva gets a lot of joy out of the analogue experience where you are so much more involved in the process. But she is not like myself who loves photography as a hobby, who is willing to spend hours learning the exposure triangle and experimenting with different settings. Instax Wide 300 gives her the perfect one-stop-shop: point and shoot. No post editing non-sense, just light, chemical reactions and raw emotions.
Fujifilm dominates the instant photography market for a good reason. Their films produce a consistent result, amazing colour saturation and punchy contrast. Their cameras are easy to use and reasonably priced. With the much bigger frame, Instax Wide packs a lot more stories and emotions into one frame compared to their more popular Instax Mini. It is easy to recommend to the vast majority of people who just begin in their instant analogue photography journey and wanted a camera to do exactly what it says on the tin without any surprises.
However, if you are looking for something that is more versatile and have more creative options, there are some other cameras on the market, such as the Lomo’Instant wide or the Mint InstantKon RF70, that also uses Instax Wide film and gives you more control over your final image.